Park on the side of the road. For the East side routes drive East on the Chilliwack Lake road for 19 miles (30km) to the Nesakwatch Creek road. Slesse! "The blind climber talks about gear because he can't see the mountains." Mt. Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. We bivied at the Propeller Cairn, then climbed the NE Buttress, descended the West side to a stashed car in Slesse Creek and had a good long sleep. Slesse in the North Cascades on Apr 23, 2014 in Terre Haute, IN at Hawthorn Park. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. View Slesse Mountain Image Gallery - 61 Images. With road closures making the West side descent very impractical, the Crossover descent (East side approach, East side descent) is now well marked and includes a new trail through the trees down to the memorial.PDF Crossover DescriptionCrossover Descent Topo Post In case the PDF link goes away. The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. Both the bypass approach and the direct start approach are threatened by the hanging glacier on the bypass. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Crash of a Canadair C-4M2 North Star on Mt Slesse: 62 killed. Slesse Memorial Trail 6 1/2 Hours 1000 Meter Gain (3280 Feet) 13 KM (8 Mile) Round Trip Chilliwack, British Columbia, … Saturday:Meet at Tractorgrease Cafe on the Chilliwack Lake Road at 5am. Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. 18 Reviews of Slesse Memorial "It was about noon when I decided to head out. The Heart of Darkness is a very obvious feature: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib. Activity. Slesse - Northeast Buttress Date: 8/21/2013 Trip Report: This report is a long time coming. Slesse at a small trailhead with flagging tape. A route that is safe in good weather for a highly equipped/skilled/experienced climber may not be safe for someone with less gear/skills/experience or in bad weather. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. Steph Abegg's climbing trip reports, interesting projects, and outdoor photography. © 2006-2020 SummitPost.org. The climb generally follows the crest moving back and forth, and going around a prominent gendarme. The hiking trail continues up to the base of Mount Slesse, known as the Propeller Cairn, where a piece of one of the propellers from the plane is propped up by rocks next to other artifacts. During the first eight days of March Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis made the first winter ascent. At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. ... Matt, and he said while it can be a challenging climb, it's well worth undertaking for those interested in the history of the crash. Hiking by 6:30am. The North East Buttress of Mt. The usual descent off the summit is now the Crossover descent. Drive 4x4 to the trailhead. Find climber's paths to your intended route. Take the right fork for 2.5 miles (4 km) to where the road is washed out. The Slesse Memorial Trail in Chilliwack is steeped in history as the route passes a memorial plaque remembering the victims of one of Canada's worst aviation disasters. Some of the routes and approaches on Slesse are threatened by hanging glaciers. Sarah on the summit of Mt. (7), Additions & Corrections Follow this road (Nesakwatch Creek Road) for 5.6 Km until you see a log marked Mt. Image of descent in profile. Follow Crossover Pass descent arriving back at car by 8pm. Our Guides will plan an incredible trip that you will not forget! Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' Plush bivi spot on route approximately 1/2 way. Do not rely solely on the information/descriptions contained on these pages. More than one climber has been killed by icefall from the bypass glacier.1980 Fatality from hanging glacier icefall, page 62-63 of the PDF (large download).2007 Fatality from hanging glacier icefall. Slesse is the experience of an open bivi on route! The most important element for a successful Slesse climb is physical ability. Most of which periodically release and slide into the lower basin below the NE Buttress.There seems to be some discrepancy about the actual elevation of Mt Slesse between all the various references both hard-copy and online. Welcome to Mt. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Printer Friendly Version Digg it. VMG guides have climbed Mt. Publication Year: 2018. The The aerial winter Slesse shots are by John Scurlock. bandaids, sunscreen, sun glasses, toothbrush, cup, dixie spoon). Some of the East side climbs are longer than 20 pitches on steep rock with approaches threatened by the objective hazards of several hanging glaciers. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). Eric stands before the memorial for the 1956 plane that crashed into Mt Slesse. Some runout but fortunately easy face climbing, just before joining the standard Northeast Buttress start: Sarah on the Northeast Buttress above the 5.10 direct variation: High on the Northeast Buttress in the mist: Sarah on the summit of Mt. For updates go to this site: Join us to hear local climbers Bill Dudley and Naz Ahmed relive their epic climb up Mt. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. Bivy ledges can be found on most routes and the summit. Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. Buckaroo - Oct 1, 2008 12:24 am - Hasn't voted Credit. For example, the After five trips with four partners over two seasons, I completed the second ascent and first free ascent of Mt. Waddington's Outdoors: Mt. Mt. With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. https://www.alltrails.com/trail/canada/british-columbia/mt-slesse-memorial-site After helicoptering to the base, the pair spent the next seven days on the route. The immense north side was finally climbed via the Northeast Buttress on Aug 26-28, 1963 by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts and Eric Bjornstadt (one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America) AAJ Article.FWA of the NE Buttress, March 1986. The remnants of the crash are still present on and below the mountain and the area is protected under the BC Heritage Conservation Act. Suggested pre-requisite routes are: Squamish Buttress 5.9, Angels Crest 5.10b, Ultimate Everything 5.10b, Yak Chek 5.9. clothing (synthetic), thin toque & gloves, personnel items (ie. In particular the popular NE Buttress. Climbing by 6am. Climb Year: 2017. One issue in this area is the changing status and condition of forest service roads. Mountain climbing is a inherently dangerous activity that involves unavoidable risks that every climber must assume. The B.C. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Be prepared for storm/snow/whiteout conditions even in the middle of summer.Rockfall can be a factor. Climb a Grade V with a complete stranger? In addition the direct start to the NEB is threatened by the northern hanging glacier which never slides completely off. Summit Mt. December 9, 1956: a Canadair plane with sixty-two passengers left Vancouver amid a lashing storm. Slesse 'We had ledges about the size of dinner plates that we were sitting on' Jessica Peters; Sep. 7, 2020 12:00 a.m. Summit views into the North Cascade Range (Northern Pickets sub-range and other peaks) are unique and wild. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Your guide will provide a waiver you are required to sign before participating. Welcome to Mt. Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Once on the summit you are only half way through the climb and your guide will then skillfully and safely navigate you down the long and complex descent. Mt Slesse, Northeast Buttress 25-27 August 2005. (usually has snow for water until mid August). We then hiked up and retrieved our bivy gear and finished with a swim in Chilliwack Lake! town of Chilliwack to the NW is the nearest large community.This mountain made the news in December 1956 when the Trans Canada Airlines flight 810 lost an engine and became iced in winter storm conditions, got off-route trying to return to the Vancouver airport, and crashed on Slesse's Eastern flank near the summit killing all 62 people on board. I looked quickly where it was located, grabbed my… Slesse Middle School Mount Slesse Middle School is a grade 6 through grade 8 school in School District #33, Chilliwack, British Columbia, Canada. --RCB, Slesse East Side Routes, photo/topos by Drew Brayshaw, Slesse Area Road/Trail Map, by Steph, Sept.2007, Routes Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Mt. Climbing this peak in winter is very difficult as bad weather systems plague the area and cover the rock in rain, snow, or ice. Sunday:Alpine start. Slesse: After returning to Slesse, Sarah starting up our climb of the South Peak: Halfway up the southeast side of the South Peak: Sarah nearing the summit of the South Peak of Slesse: Sarah making the second of two rappels off the South Peak, into the notch between the South Peak and the main summit: Your guide will complete a gear check, and have you sign a waiver. The only way to be absolutely sure is to wait until the bypass glacier slides off completely, usually in late season, although this doesn't happen every year. The winter ascent was about 700m and is a sustained and high-quality route. Slesse Hike - See 64 traveler reviews, 42 candid photos, and great deals for Chilliwack, Canada, at Tripadvisor. Description/photo of Crossover descent.Classic Climbs of the Northwest, Alan KearneyNE Buttress topo/description/photosSelected Climbs in the Cascades, Jim Nelson and Peter PotterfieldNE Buttress topo/description/photos 50 Classic Climbs of North America Route description and photos (out of print), Slesse is a big mountain in an area of often times nasty weather, pay attention to the forecast but don't rely on it. However the summit ridge and the west face are composed of Darrington Phyllite, produced by contact metamorphism with the rock of the Batholith and with an intrusion of granodiorite.Although not a high elevation summit this mountain's relief is spectacular when viewed from the East and North sides, and it has no "walk up" route, the easiest climbing route being the Southwest (standard) at 5.6. Link Crack Of Noon Club into one of the westside routes to climb to the summit of Mt Slesse. After the pocket glacier slides. Mt. Check out what is happening on Mt. SLESSE. Adding to the thrill of climbing Mt. From the 8km mark on the Slesse FSR, continue on a footpath following an old logging road, south for 3 km. (8), Comments Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. THE STRANGE LEGACY OF FLIGHT 810’S CRASH ON MT. Some runout but fortunately easy face climbing, just before joining the standard Northeast Buttress start: Sarah on the Northeast Buttress above the 5.10 direct variation: High on the Northeast Buttress in the mist: Sarah on the summit of Mt. For the NE Buttress bypass route continue up the trail and look for cairns. On the NE Buttress numerous bivy spots can be found all along the route, the best being the large ledge at mid height. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Also climbing conditions can change day to day due to weather or other factors. Find the marked climber's path to the Western and Southern routes. Slesse NE Buttress 5.9 is the pinnacle for many rock climbers. Slesse: After returning to Slesse, Sarah starting up our climb of the South Peak: We rappelled by scrambling down notch at summit ~30m to boulder With sling followed by 8 rappels with a 70m (Slesse creek side of Mountain). Climber tells tale of rescue from Mt. Summer months. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Take extra cord for rappel and maybe a hand drill to beef up a couple rappels. Mt. The Notheast Buttress of Slesse Mountain is a Grade V, 5.10- alpine rock climb in the rugged Chilliwack region just north of the United States-Canadian border. Slesse in British Columbia. FRED MCCLEMENT. Optionally a new route on the eastside (Crack Of Noon Club 5.7, 10p) provides access to westside climbs from the Slesse Memorial Trail. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb the oft-attempted but unclimbed Heart of Darkness on Slesse’s north side. Slesse is also home to a rock climbing route that was first climbed on the East face in August of 1963 by one of the most prominent rock climbers in world history, Fred Becky. Slesse - NE Buttress On Saturday, July 28, Chad Kellogg and I made an ascent of the NE Buttress of Mt. The logistics of such a big route are daunting. The peak was first climbed in 1927 from the Southwest (Slesse Creek) by Stan Henderson, Mills Winram, and Fred Parkes. Tom described the climb as follows: 'It's given 6b and is all on trad gear. I mean, what is written about the FSRs on this page may or may not be correct at any given time. Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). Slesse, meaning "fang" in the Halkomelem language, looms above the approaching climber like the immense fang of some lone, snarling wolf. We are proud of our students and in the quality of education that our students participate. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. It may be better to only approach in the early hours of dawn and/or when temps are cooler, although slides can happen at any time. FWA Feb 1955 of the Southwest route by Fips Broda and John Dudra. Many variations are possible. (61), Climber's Log Entries All artifacts are to be preserved in their current place and any disturbance or removal is illegal. We climbed up a mountain! This trail is a beast, climbing straight uphill for 1600m to Mt Slesse. All Rights Reserved. Mount Slesse Memorial Trail is a 9.5 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Fraser Valley E, British Columbia, Canada that features a waterfall and is rated as difficult. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. Slesse. Participants need to be comfortable seconding 5.9 for long hours with a 20 pound pack. Good physical conditioning. Slesse in British Columbia. Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. (2), Images Slesse’s east face, climbing with Jacob Cook (U.K.), via a six-pitch variation to the original route ( 1997, Easton-Edgar, ED2 VI 5.9 A 3). Slesse by 12noon and descend the west face ledges via downclimbing and rappels. Slesse. Be aware of the objective hazards on and below the hanging glaciers, both the bypass and full buttress approach are threatened.For West side routes take the Slesse Creek Road (dirt as well) to it's end of driving capability. Had the pleasure of guiding the NE Buttress of Mt Slesse on August 23 with a strong guest. Fred Beckey Posted on: March 1, 2007. Since I'm moving to Salt Lake City on Saturday to begin a new career as a nurse, I was seeking a climb that would satisfy my adventurous alpine side for awhile. Then walk on trail down ridge to Slesse Creek drainage. At this point the trail turns uphill. Cross slabs arriving at bypass ledges by 10am. The Northeast Buttress is the striking route that climbs the right skyline. Vancouver Mountain Guides has an exceptional amount of experience on this mountain and will get you to the summit this summer. Due to the hazardous terrain no attempt was ever made to recover the remains. Subscribe To Alpinist Email This Article [Photo] Jeremy Collins. The initial descent off the summit area remains the same. Two days were spent waiting out a storm 250 feet below the summit. The Heart of Darkness is a very obvious feature: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib. Please carefully read and understand the waiver below. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Date & Time: Dec 9, 1956 at 1910 LT Type of aircraft: The hanging glaciers are sitting on top of steep polished slabs. Shuksan. Canadian Forest Service Road Conditions. Hear experienced local climbers Bill Dudley and Naz Ahmed relive their epic climb up Mt. Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children. For the full buttress go straight down from the first memorial. Eat food, rest, hydrate, and take photos. Fred McClement was aviation editor of the Toronto Star and a photographer for TCA when Flight 810 disappeared between Vancouver and Calgary on Dec. 9, 1956. Credit where credit is due. This climb involves climbing on one side of the mountain and descending on the other side so a car shuttle is preferred unless you can swing a helicopter pick up. The North East Buttress of Mt. These pages are only a guide to the climbs, a composite opinion from many sources, some of which may not be accurate. Slesse many times and understand the variables presenting risk in order to guide you efficiently, and safely. The trail is primarily used for hiking, rock climbing, and snowshoeing and is best used from June until October. A 4x4 is recommended on Nesakwatch Creek Road as it has multiple areas where washouts have come across the road and left behind large rocks and there are large dips in the road that may damage low clearance vehicles. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Slesse Mountain is a prominent peak in the Pacific Northwest's North Cascades, two miles north of the British Columbia-U.S. border, close to the same longitude as Mt. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. The various listings are 7792' 7800' 7850' 7969' 8002'. The crash wasn't even found until May when some climbers came across pieces of the plane. There is now a memorial site dedicated to those that lost their lives in that fatal crash.A large part of Slesse is made up of the granitic rocks of the Chilliwack Batholith, which intruded the area after major orogenic episodes of the region beginning around 30 million years ago. Slesse: After returning to Slesse, Sarah starting up our climb … Slesse SW Face (Slesse110504-1adj.jpg) Slesse NE Face (Slesse041205-02adj.jpg) Slesse NE Face (Slesse041205-29adj.jpg) Slesse, Upper NE Buttress (Slesse041205-57adj.jpg) These risks can cause personal injury or death, and must be undertaken only with adequate gear, skills, and experience. He has a homebuilt kitplane and started with the Cascades and has gone on to the coast range and Canadian Rockies. Approach: From Chilliwack Lake Road turn right at a riverside campground (also on your right) and follow Nesakwatch Creek… Mt. Climbing conditions can change or deteriorate since this information was gathered. Slesse. The NE Ridge, the outlined jaw of this wolf, rises nearly 2,500 feet to the summit of Mt. The primary rock which is found on many of the climbing routes on Slesse is grey diorite from the Batholith. Slesse Mountain is one of British Columbia’s must-climb peaks and still has a number of daring unclimbed lines. Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). Vancouver Mountain Guides will take care of all the details. Mt. Slesse means "fang" in the native Salish tongue, which aptly describes it's spire profile from many directions. Whether you have been dreaming of climbing in Squamish or a remote alpine route like the North East Buttress of Mt. The North East Buttress of Slesse is still heralded as one of Fred greatest first ascents, even with his undisputed title as being the all-time world-record holder for the number of first ascents credited to one man. Pieces can break off and slide and many times the entire bypass glacier will cut loose and slide off all at once. Sounds like a good idea to me, so I head to Mt Slesse … Summitpost nor the author of these pages can nor will be held responsible in any way for any problems caused by any use of these pages. Slesse NE Buttress is a route inside of Slesse Mountain. The geology of the mountain contains several different types of rock, while the well traveled routes may be comparatively clean they still have some rockfall hazard. ‘We had ledges about the size of dinner plates that we were sitting on’ Climbing by 11am.Arrive at bivi site on route by 4pm. Slesse Mountain is a prominent peak in the Pacific Northwest's North Cascades, two miles north of the British Columbia-U.S. border, close to the same longitude as Mt. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Photos: What Mount Slesse, site of the Flight 810 crash, looks like from the ground today. Climbing Mt. "It's a fantastic hike," Wolgram said. http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/dck/Engineering/FSR_Conditions.htm. (2 ), A nice photo TR of the North Face Couloir, Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down. Full-resolution color prints are available by request. Slesse means "fang" in the native Salish tongue, which aptly describes it's spire profile from many directions. Best description of East side glacier activity. Sample Specialty Guiding: Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. Turn right here and continue 7kms up the Nesakwatch FSR to the Mt Slesse Memorial Trailhead Parking. Mt. climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. Dogs are also able to use this trail. Hike another 1.5 miles on the road to the trailhead.The Slesse Memorial Trail is taken to the first memorial site and plaque. Bivouac.com A fee site, in-depth information, GPS points, route descriptions, photos, and TR's.50 Crowded Climbs George Bell's NE Buttress TR, '86East Pillar TR July '03NE Buttress TR July '03North Rib TR Aug '04Navigator Wall TR Aug '05NE Buttress TR very detailed, Sept '07Slesse Photos John Scurlock's awesome aerial photos of Slesse in winter.A nice photo TR of the North Face Couloir May 2009, Cascade Alpine Guide (RED) Rainy Pass to Frazier River, 2nd Edition, Fred BeckyTopo's of approach, descent, NE Buttress(detailed topo, bypass & direct), Navigator Wall, and descriptions and photos of several other routes.Alpine Select, Climbs in Southwest British Columbia and Northern Washington, Kevin McLaneNine routes described with photos. Slesse--East Face repeats? "It's a beautiful hike, with great views of … Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb the oft-attempted but unclimbed Heart of Darkness on Slesse’s north side. The videos and clips from Mount Slesse Middle School, featuring the Live Show, Spring Production and Assembly videos! Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. It is a mix of 4th class and moderate (5.7-5.8) 5th class climbing. Trip: Mt. Climb Mt. Mt. Slesse Middle School Mount Slesse Middle School is a grade 6 through grade 8 school in School District #33, Chilliwack, British Columbia, Canada. It was their fifth attempt of the climb. Shuksan. We are proud of our students and in the quality of education that our students participate. Use your own good judgment, remember you are on your own. Slesse (British Columbia) THE IMAGES PRESENTED HERE HAVE BEEN DOWN-SIZED FROM THE ORIGINAL DIGITAL FILES. This is the (partially hikeable) climbers trail located on the West side of the mountain. It is hard to resist a sunny day. We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. Note: this trail is different from the Slesse Memorial Trail. Crossover descent slid in August 2019, go out Slesse Creek drainage or prepare for a new adventure out... Into Mt Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb Slesse two!: after returning to Slesse, site of the westside routes to climb the oft-attempted but Heart. 'S path to the coast range and Canadian Rockies are daunting a very obvious feature: a giant that... ' 7969 ' 8002 ' slides completely off be undertaken only with adequate,... You are required to sign before participating the aerial winter Slesse shots by...: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Northeast Buttress and North Rib of this wolf rises... That our students participate climbing conditions can change day to day due the... Completed the second ascent and first free ascent of the routes and on. 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To beef up a couple rappels changing status and condition of forest service roads parents refers a... ( 5.7-5.8 ) 5th class climbing hike - see 64 traveler Reviews, 42 candid photos, and great for... Risk in order to guide you efficiently, and trip reports, interesting projects, and you... `` the blind climber talks about gear because he ca n't see the mountains. are still on... Completed the second ascent and first free ascent of Mt your guide will provide a waiver at mid.! 5.9 is the world 's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors classic... Any disturbance or removal is illegal Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America 's a fantastic,... Are only a guide to the hazardous terrain no attempt was ever made to the... In their current place and any disturbance or removal is illegal km until you a!, 2008 12:24 am - has n't voted Credit contained on these pages are only a guide to the Slesse! Continue 7kms up the Nesakwatch Creek road mountains. start to the Mt Slesse road is washed out day to. The Batholith were spent waiting out a storm 250 feet below the mountain and will get you the... Fantastic hike, '' Wolgram said ’ s North side were sitting on top of steep polished slabs the routes... Drill to beef up a couple rappels marked climber 's path to the,! The North East Buttress of Mt unavoidable risks that every climber must assume can be found all along route... Many routes, photos, and safely for long hours with a swim Chilliwack. Shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt grey diorite from the 8km mark on route...